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40 Series Landcruiser Rebuild

A real-world product showcase from one of our own.

"This project has really taught me a lot about the real world applications of the products we sell on a daily basis."
Phillip Mullner
Sales Representative

initial plans and delivery

From an early age I always had an appreciation for cars and 4wd’s. We would go camping in my Dad’s HJ61 Toyota Landcruiser most weekends and just loved exploring this amazing country. As i grew older i learnt how to drive in that same Landcruiser my Dad had owned since new. Naturally as time went on I wanted a classic Landcruiser of my own. The utilitarian styling and overall ruggedness of the 40 series Landcruiser always peaked my interest. I started researching prices online and saw an upwards trend of prices over the last few years. I knew if i wanted to get one now would be the time. I finally found a suitable candidate in regional NSW which needed a lot of work but was drivable. It was a 1984 Toyota Landcruiser HJ47 Ute for sale for a fair price with factory air conditioning and a PTO winch. We drove down and towed it home with the same HJ61 from my childhood years, it was a great feeling. Once we got home i got stuck into disassembly, carefully labelling all the parts and making sure i was taking photos along the way. It is much easier taking things apart than putting them back together!

A little rough around the edges but a good base for a restoration
Loaded up and ready to drive home
Driving around the backyard
Removed the tray
Steam cleaning the chassis and driveline
Diff housing before restoration
Diff housing after being stripped with the Clean disc
Chassis Painted

Teardown

Once i started the teardown process i knew i was fully committed to the rebuild. There was definitely no turning back! The sheer amount of rust and dirt that was caked in the chassis rails made me wonder how this car drove at all.

I got stuck into removing the tray first then all the body panels and interior pieces. Placing them into labelled bags certainly helped me down the track. The chassis and driveline was then steam cleaned to remove most of the built up dirt and grease. 

It was now time to start cleaning up parts and repainting. I decided to start with the front and rear axles as i had all the parts to rebuild them on hand. I used our MAGNUM CLEAN DISC to strip back all of the old paint and rust back to bare metal ready for painting. This worked great and gave the paint a nice surface to adhere to. This was the main product i used throughout the build. For nearly every part i stripped the paint and rust off using the clean disc and painted it.

The Diff housings and chassis were then painted using the KBS painting process.

Bodywork

This has by far taken the longest amount of time. Lucky for me my dad has a lot of panel beating experience otherwise this would be a very costly endeavour! Since the previous owner used the car almost extensively as a beach fishing vehicle every panel and join was rusty. Firstly the sections were stripped of all the old paint, bog and rust to get back to bare metal. The Magnum Clean Disc made short work of this while not harming the base material.

Each piece was cut out using our Magnum Finecut 1″ cutting disc. This allowed for fast, precise cuts which made it a lot easier to weld in new metal. Each piece was made out of 1.2mm sheet. Firstly a rough shape was cut out using our Finecut Disc, then the piece was shaped using a Fix flap disc to achieve a tight fit of the patch piece. The piece was then welded to the body making sure not to introduce too much heat to avoid warping the panel. The welds were then ground down using our Trimfix hellfire disc. This disc is very aggressive and made short work of the welds. A fast material removal rate is important as this limits how hot the work surface gets, limiting the chance of warping. The inside section of these panels is going to be treated with rust converter and cavity wax to limit future corrosion.

Time was then spent on cleaning up engine bay components such as the intake pipes shown on the right. Since they are cast aluminium i wanted to make sure i kept the original look of the casting marks and texture. To achieve this i used our Magnum Fleecetop Grit 600. The 600 grit provides a very fine finish with minimal material removal. This process was very simple and satisfying as the results were fast to achieve and should really make the engine shine!

Most Panel joins were rusty like the on above
The rusty section was cut out using a 1" Magnum Finecut Disc
The patch piece was cut out and shaped using our FIX Flap Disc
Welded in and ground down using our Trimfix Hellfire
Cleaning up the cast aluminium engine parts using our Magnum Fleecetop Grit 600

Products used in this article

Magnum Fleecetop

This was used to clean up cast aluminium pieces to a nice bright finish. 600 Grit was used in this case. Was also used for cleaning up zinc plated engine parts that were slightly rusty before painting.

Magnum Finecut

Used for cutting rusty metal out of the body and for cutting up the general shape of the patch panels. Due to its 1" size it makes it cut very quickly and neatly.

FIX Flap Disc

Used for finer grinding and shaping usually 80 grit was used for these tasks as we only wanted to remove a small amount of material at a time to ensure patch panel fitment. Like all of the FIX line of products it was used with a velcro backing pad.

Magnum Clean Disc

Used for stripping paint, rust, bog dirt, mud and other surface contaminants. Brings the surface down to bare metal without removing the base material.

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